If you are a food enthusiast, particularly one with a fondness for Asian flavors, you will know Indonesia through the two foods that are known around the world for their unique taste: Indomie, the perfect staple for college students living on a budget and a plate of nasigoreng. Of course, nasigoreng translates simply to fried rice in Bahasa Indonesia, but there is nothing simple about it.
Armed with sunscreen and the determination to spend my nights walking down food streets and relishing the different flavors Indonesian cuisine has to offer, I arrived with ten others for a week-long excursion to the land of great food and great beaches. I ended up discovering a lot more.
Indonesia has a well-kept secret. A vast archipelago, quite possibly the biggest in the world, it has an overwhelming number of islands (17,800 to be exact); with Bali, one of the biggest magnet for tourists around the world. But that's not the secret.
When asked from our tour guide what were the three things that would describe Indonesia, he immediately responded: our food, our beautiful scenery, and our smiles! The third is the secret ingredient which separates Indonesia from many other tourist countries.
Whether you are walking on the street, at your hotel, or sitting on the pavement, you will encounter smiling locals. You constantly came across local people showing warmth and hospitality while language and cultural barriers do not effect their welcome behaviour. To our surprise, this experience lasted across nearly 10 days we spent on the different islands of the country.
Bali bound: Love you to the beach and back
Our first stop had to be Bali. Located on the east of Lambok, the island is a kaleidoscope of art and culture, even if it's mostly known for its beaches. With a predominantly Hindu population, the city is dotted with stunning sculptures, idols, and temples, quite the haven for photographers, art lovers and cultural enthusiasts.
Our hotel overlooked the grand Kuta Beach which is popular for swimmers and surfers. Tourists head over in the early hours of the morning to a relatively secluded beach for surfing or just to bask in the early morning breeze against the cool, quiet waves. A trip to Bali is incomplete without a 6:00 am morning walk across a sea that is itself preparing for the day. Night time is equally, if not more fascinating.
Just across the street is a stream of hotels, lodgings, resorts, restaurants and shops brimming with tourists. There is something for everybody and accommodation options are aplenty. My fellow tourists mentally reviewed the list of things they needed to buy from the small markets near our hotel as we headed to the Jimbaran Beach. Aside from its sights, this beach is one of the best local sites to try fresh seafood caught earlier in the day.
Diners and restaurants have set up shop along the coastlines, the entire place lit with bright orange lights complimenting the whiteness of the moon high above. As the tide came up, we could feel the waves getting closer to our tables on the sandy beach. A few steps afar, some tourists were enjoying local musicians playing popular American songs on their guitars. A hawker selling sweetcorn fit right in with the picture.
Our next day was spent at the Tanah Lot beach which sits atop a rocky coastline encircling a huge Hindu temple that is a choice site for local devotees and tourists. The beach is led in by a huge market for ethnic clothes, jewelry, souvenirs, temporary tattoos, and a wide range of local food at nominal costs.
The vast beauty of the beach could only be gauged once we climbed the rocky terrain up to a wide landing. Surfers like dots could be seen down below hitting the waves. As the sun came down, the air was lit with a throng of birds taking flight. Nature sang in unison. Our third beach stop was a memorable all-day trip to the Pandawa Beach which is great for boat riding, swimming and sun bathing for those who would like a natural suntan.
We also got the opportunity to visit the Safari Marine Park packed with excited families ready to see wildlife in their natural habitat, and the Garuda Wisnu Kencana (GWK) cultural park. The GWK is an iconic monument of the Hindu god Vishnu and his bird companion Garuda which is a sight to behold. We also enjoyed a local Balinese dance performance at the park.
As we sadly wrapped our Bali leg of the journey, we were reminded by our Indonesian companion that to limit the Indonesian experience to the beaches of Bali would be a mistake. A lot more awaited. So we bid the island farewell and packed our bags for a local flight to Malang.
Wanderlust in Malang
The second biggest city in Indonesia, Malang located in the East Java province could easily be the Yin to Bali's Yang, with a vastly different terrain, enveloped by mountains and mountain ranges. The city's quieter, cooler, and hillier air instantly uplifted moods.
Our main reason to head to Malang was taking one of the longest journeys, almost like a rite of passage, to Mount Bromo, which is a popular active volcano site located east of the city. In fact, Indonesia is home to over a 100 active volcanoes. Like a holy pilgrimage, hoards of local and foreign tourists take this long trip to hike the slopes of the mountain or just merely witness the sunrise which unveils the volcano from its veil of darkness.
Sitting on the plain called the "Sea of Sand", typically tourists travel to Bromo through a mountain village and walk up to the volcano. Snuggled in warm jackets and mufflers, we travelled outside the city through the night for what seemed like hours.
Transferring to local jeeps, we drove up the narrow terrain of the Cemoro Lawang village to reach Mount Penanjakan where the viewing happens. In the wee hours of the morning, locals were brewing tea and preparing food for the tourists that would take over the place for a couple of hours. A few 100 steps up the landing, we stood awaiting the sunrise against the vast landscape of valley. When the sun finally came up, the grueling trip seemed completely worth it.
Jakarta: Indonesia's own melting pot
Our last local flight led us to the capital. Long roads and highways, tall buildings, heavy traffic, and a lot of motorbikes, couple that with the sweltering heat and you will have the quintessential metropolis, which Jakarta certainly is. The city is the business and government center and houses many heritage sites like the old town Jakarta, formerly known as Batavia, which are a must visit.
The National Monument that symbolizes Indonesia's struggle for freedom is a 132 m structure that tourists can actually take a quick elevator ride to. At 115m above ground level, the viewing platform overlooks the entire city in all its glory. Atop the monument is a bronze flame, covered with 35kg of gold foil meant to celebrate Indonesia's independence.
The city is engulfed by huge shopping malls, tall apartment buildings, supermarkets, and luxurious hotels but the traditional markets are still as vibrant as ever. Cheap bazaars sell a variety of locally made apparel, particularly made with Batik which is a traditional Indonesian fabric. Street food is as alive as some of the global food franchises - next to every Starbucks was a long line of hawkers selling sweet corn, squeezed fruit juices and a fresh bowl of miegoreng (fried noodles),with extra pedas (spice), if you so desired.
Particularly for Muslim tourists, Indonesia's biggest mosque, which also happens to be the largest mosque in South East Asia could be a memorable visit, especially for Friday prayers.
On our last day in Indonesia, as some of my companions headed for shopping, I reached Masjid Istiqlal which is designed for as many as 200,000 mosque goers at a time. There is nothing quite like this mammoth building which has five floors, symbolizing the five pillars of Islam and seven doors to its entrance, symbolizing the seven heavens in Islamic cosmology.
Final thoughts
Three things stood out during the trip. One, the country is incredibly cheap, especially by European standards. Locally made jewelry, artifacts and accessories make for incredible gifts to take back home, food and lodging is equally affordable with options available for travelers on a tight budget as well as for luxury touring. There is a lot to do for families travelling with children who have a selection of large amusement and safari parks and water activities to choose from.
Second, Indonesian food is a nirvana for spice and seafood lovers. Sea creatures are freshly caught and served, often as part of a large feast. Each entrée at any restaurant is accompanied by healthy servings of sambal sauce made of a variety of chili peppers and other spices. The sauce is served at varying levels of heat, depending on which part of Indonesia you are in. But it is always worth rediscovering.
Lastly and mostly importantly, the country celebrates diversity which is a lesson for the lot of us. It has six official religions. People living in tremendous harmony; embracing, rather than rejecting the various cultures and religions that co-exist in the country.
Freedom is not only afforded to tourists, as an exception, but to locals as well. There are women wearing scarves and those wearing skirts, and both are seen driving sturdy motorcycles down the roads and streets. That itself is refreshing and enviable to watch.
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