Revisiting China

In pursuance of the celebrated Hadith that enjoins "Seek knowledge even unto China", I have visited the People's Republic of China many a times. My first visit to this great country was in 1969 when I stayed in Shanghai for about three months as a trainee engineer. Since then I have traveled in China - from Capital to northeast and northwest - over fifteen times or so.
My association with the Chinese-assisted projects at home, helped me in exploring the wonders of China, and at the same time, the traditional hospitality of the Chinese. Indeed, China is now like a second home to me.
One of the oldest civilizations of the world, China has a written history of over forty centuries. The nation is made up of numerous nationalities. Historically viewed, Islam came to China during Tang dynasty (618-907) - popularly known as the golden age - through the silk route traders. It was reinforced during the period of Hazrat Osman-bin-Affan (RA), the third caliph when Hazrat Sa'ad-bin-Abi Waqaas (RA) was deputed to extend invitation to the Chinese Emperor to embrace Islam. That was the early settlement of Muslims. The first mosque was built in Canton, now known as Guangzhou, which also houses the Mazar of Hazrat Sa'ad-bin-Abi Waqaas (RA). Islam had great impact and influence on the country's economy, culture, art and trade. There are eight different translations of the Holy Qur'an in Chinese language. Islamic books in classical Han language on Fiqah, Akhlaq, history, philosophy and linguistics, as well as on Chinese thoughts and traditions were published. A few were translated from Arabic and Persian, whereas others were original works.
Besides the Islam-dominated Xinjiang province, there are Muslim communities in various major cities and regions; the most significant being Northwest China. Sha'anxi province is one of those areas, which has 118 mosques and population of over 130,000 Muslims of the Hui minority - descendants of the Islamic community of Tang- era. Xi'an city, a great cosmopolitan centre in the Sha'anxi province, is of great historical importance and cultural heritage that dates back five millennia and has marked influence of Islam. The city came into prominence during the Qin dynasty period, (221-206 BC), though short but a landmark in the history. The first Qin-emperor, known for unification of China and creation of the first Great Wall, declared Xi'an then known as Chang'an, as the capital. Then, for another one thousand years, it remained the capital of China during successive dynasties, before its shifting to today's Beijing.
For long I have been looking forward to visit this old metropolis situated at one end of the ancient Silk Road.
The opportunity could come only recently when, during one of my business trips to Beijing, I planned the visit. Xi'an, also known domestically for its steel industry, is world famous for the 'terracotta' warriors and Horses, the eighth wonder of the world. In quest of immortality, the Qin Emperor prepared an army of about 7,000 lifelike 'terracotta' figures that was buried along with the emperor and the royal family, in massive mausoleums. A large number of tourists from all over the world visit these historical sites that are now included in the world heritage.
The main attraction for us in Xi'an however was the Great Mosque, one of the four largest mosques in China. It is visited by a large number of Muslims across the globe every year, particularly by the heads of the Islamic countries. As planned, it was Friday and we were keen to offer prayers in the Great Mosque. The Imam, who had prior information about our visit, accorded us a warm welcome. He briefed us about historical background of the development of Islam in China and the role Great Mosque of Xi'an played. We were taken around the expansive structure that represents traditional Chinese architecture, and is different from the peculiar style of an Arabic or Persian mosque. Established in 742 AD during the Tang dynasty, the mosque was restored, renovated and altered during the successive empires. The complex covers about one and a half square kilometers, and has a built area of over 6,000 square meters. It also serves as the Eidgah and centre of all religious activities of the Muslims of the area.
Built in the shape of a rectangle, from east to the west, the mosque looks like a traditional Chinese garden temple. It has neither a dome nor a tower, and consists of four courtyards. The first courtyard has an elaborate wooden archway, nine meter high, standing opposite a huge screen wall decorated with brick carvings. Its magnificence is reflected in the upturned eaves, multiple layers of brackets and glazed roof tiles. Furniture dating the Ming and Qing dynasties is placed in the side houses, which served as a madarssah in old days and are located on both sides of the archway. The second courtyard has a stone archway and three connected memorial gateways with inscriptions, in Chinese and Arabic, on both sides. There are two freestanding steles crowned with calligraphy of famous painters, which are some of the best artwork of China. The hall, in the middle of the courtyard, consists of five elaborate rooms and presents elevation of the pagoda-style mosque.
The imperial hall in the third courtyard is the oldest building of the complex. It has a stone tablet inscribed in Arabic that describes the method of working out the Islamic calendar. In the middle of the courtyard is an introspection minaret, an octagonal pagoda building with roof of turquoise tiles. On one side of the structure is a lecture hall where the hand written copy of the Holy Qur'an of the Ming dynasty and map of Makkah city of the Qing dynasty are preserved, along with other historical and cultural relics.
The last courtyard, connected through three doorways that are decorated with brick carvings, consists of archways and pavilions with painted beams and engraved ridgepoles. The prayer hall, which can accommodate thousands of believers, has its ceilings carved with hundreds of classical scriptures containing the letters of colorful decorative patterns of flowers and leaves. Holy Qur'an carved in 60 pieces of huge wooden boards, a complete set of thirty parts in Arabic and the other in the Chinese, is fascinating. The Great Mosque of Xi'an provides an absorbing history and tradition, and leaves an indelible impression on the visitor.
The Juma prayers that day were attended by tens of hundreds of believers of all age groups, from young to old and from all walks of life, rich and poor. Mostly attired in festive dresses for the occasion, they all listened to the Khutba intently. Many disabled were among the worshippers for whom special twin stools and benches were provided to facilitate prayer offering while seated. After prayers the Imam invited us at lunch - a combination of Arabic and Chinese cuisine. He also presented gifts along with a superb blueprint of the mosque in the form of a scroll.
Currently there are about 55 minority nationalities in China, Muslims being one of the largest and most prominent. It is reflected in the fact that there are 32,749 mosques in the country. Before founding of the People's Republic of China in 1949, there were 48 million Muslims residing in the country. However, there are no authentic estimates of share of Muslim population in the current total Chinese nation of 1.3 billion, a very rough estimate being in the range of 22 to 200 million. Muslims suffered during the Great Leap Forward and Cultural Revolution periods. No religious practice was allowed, and Muslims too, a major minority in mainland, were denied the right to perform rituals and to carry out other religious activities.
Recalling my stay in Shanghai during the Cultural Revolution days, I always remember Ma, our Muslim cook . Initially, we even as Pakistani engineers had difficulty in offering prayers at our factory premises five times a day, but later we were allowed. And as a special favour, courtesy Pakistan Embassy at Beijing, we were taken to the mosque located in central Shanghai, to attend Friday prayers, though our movements in the city were restricted. The central mosque, managed by the elder Chinese Muslims, was specifically opened for us on Fridays whereas the locals were not permitted to attend the prayers. There was a madrassah and a library within the premises of the mosque, but there were no students of course, and the books remained locked in dusty shelves. Every Friday when we would get ready to leave for the Friday prayers, Ma (Muhammad), with tears in his eyes, would express his inability to join us in the prayers, and simply ask us, if others would not be around, to pray for him too. He was a true Muslim and would recite Kalma very often, though only in the absence of the other Chinese, and would claim resurgence of Islam in China in not too distant a future.
I greatly miss him now that his wish has come true and the Muslims in China enjoy freedom, peace and prosperity. The religious freedom was accorded, by constitution, in 1978, and Islam resurfaced gradually. The present government is supportive to Islam and other minorities and extends full protection to them to practice their respective religions. It has recently launched a massive program for the economic development of the Muslim dominated region, known as Opening of the Great Northwest 2000. It is heartening to note that the Chinese Government has taken all measures not only to conserve Islamic heritage but also for the economic well being of the Muslims.