At Britain’s first plant-based Michelin-star restaurant, most diners aren’t vegan
- About 95% of diners still eat meat or fish elsewhere, chef-owner Kirk Haworth says, proof that plant-based fine dining is breaking out of its niche
LONDON: At Plates, the first vegan restaurant in Britain to earn a coveted Michelin star, the tables are packed – but not with vegans.
About 95% of diners still eat meat or fish elsewhere, chef-owner Kirk Haworth says, proof that plant-based fine dining is breaking out of its niche.
Haworth, who co-founded Plates in London with his sister, avoids the “vegan” label. He wants diners to judge dishes on taste, not ideology.
“I always say we’re a fine dining restaurant. I don’t say that we’re vegan,” Haworth told Reuters, in his restaurant’s softly lit dining room. “Food should be judged on flavour,” he added, recalling a guest who declared himself “a changed man” halfway through dinner.
Plates became the first plant-based restaurant in Britain to earn a Michelin star earlier this year, a milestone Haworth says reflects a shift in how chefs and critics view vegetables. He dismisses any notion that this is a passing fad.
Britain’s vegan population is still small - about 3% of adults - but curiosity is growing. Michelin praises Plates for its “earthy, natural vibe” and inventive and inviting dishes that give vegetables the respect they deserve.
Haworth’s approach is rooted in personal experience.
Trained in Michelin-starred kitchens worldwide, he was forced to rethink his diet after being diagnosed with Lyme disease more than a decade ago. Bedridden for months, he began cooking without meat, dairy or refined sugar to manage chronic inflammation.
That experiment became Plates, which opened 18 months ago after years of pop-ups. Today, the restaurant is fully booked until the end of March.
“We’re not trying to replace meat or make things look like fish,” Haworth said. “We showcase acidity, umami, and layers that make the palate feel alive.”
Despite the Michelin accolade, Haworth has no plans to expand. Instead, he aims to refine the experience and, perhaps, earn a second star.
“The process is the most fun part,” he said with a smile.
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