Sirbaz Khan on Sunday successfully summited Mt. Kangchenjunga, the world’s third-highest mountain, without supplementary oxygen, becoming the first Pakistani to scale all 14 peaks over 8,000 meters without bottled oxygen.
The summit was achieved at 5:00 am local time (4:15 am PKT), in what experts are calling a rare and heroic feat of high-altitude climbing.
The 35-year-old climber from Aliabad, Hunza in Gilgit-Baltistan, completed the climb in true alpine style, with minimal gear, no fixed ropes or camps set by Sherpas, and no oxygen support.
With this achievement, Sirbaz now joins an elite group of mountaineers worldwide who have completed all 14 of the world’s “eight-thousanders”, including Everest (8,848m), K2 (8,611m), Kangchenjunga (8,586m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), Dhaulagiri (8,167m), Manaslu (8,163m), Nanga Parbat (8,126m), Annapurna I (8,091m), Gasherbrum I (8,080m), Broad Peak (8,051m), Gasherbrum II (8,035m), and Shishapangma (8,027m).
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Alpine Club of Pakistan Secretary Karrar Haidri confirmed the summit and lauded the climber’s unparalleled commitment.
“With this summit, Sirbaz Khan becomes the first Pakistani to climb all 14 highest peaks without oxygen. It is a rare and historic milestone. He has made the entire nation proud,” Haidri said.
Sirbaz began his climbing career in 2016 and over the past decade has built a reputation for resilience, skill, and courage. He has been part of multiple major expeditions, including four alongside the late Muhammad Ali Sadpara, the legendary Pakistani climber whose dream was also to summit all 14 peaks.
Speaking ahead of his successful Dhaulagiri expedition last year, Sirbaz had paid tribute to his mentor: “I am looking forward to this expedition and reaching closer to the dream of my mentor Ali Sadpara, who had the similar dream of scaling the 14 highest peaks, but tragically lost his life earlier this year during a winter expedition on K-2.”
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His latest feat has drawn congratulations from across the country, with climbers including Naila Kiani and Sajid Sadpara, as well as members of civil society and political leaders, commending his determination and contribution to Pakistan’s mountaineering legacy.
Sirbaz has long stated his mission is not only to raise the country’s flag atop the highest mountains in the world, but also to inspire a new generation of climbers from Pakistan to dream big and embrace the spirit of adventure.
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