Saint Laurent's colourful cascade

PARIS: Yves Saint Laurent sent out a cascade of colourful silk and organza, in the vivid hues beloved of its founder, as the French house showcased its look for next summer in a Paris mansion on Monday night.

Trademark black and white held pride of place in YSL's ready-to-wear collection but its Italian designer Stefano Pilati also sent out rich greens, blues and violets, alongside a handful of prints.

The actress Isabelle Huppert looked on as the first models stepped out in skirt suits, in a brocade-effect silk with a gently embossed pattern.

Splendid seafoam green blouses cut from organza, a silky fabric with natural, aerial volume, had flower-like cuffs that opened like petals around the hand.

Wide belts alternated with crystal-studded chain belts, at their centre a sheriff's buckle reworked as luxury accessory.

Dark green appeared on the catwalk on a cape-coat, or an organza dress cut on the knee, slightly split on both sides.

Smoky grey or navy tops, also in organza, were crossed around the neck leaving the shoulders bare, while others were made from two plunging, crossed lapels, creating a deep, sensuous V neck.

Backs were naked and the tops, when worn beneath a jacket, looked like mere scarves twisted round the neck.

Pants, another Saint Laurent classic, came in a blue midway between denim and turquoise, worn with an iris-colour top.

Several blouses had simple flounces on the shoulders, while at the back they billowed out at the slightest movement.

Prints blended grey with violet, forest green or black, on a skirt or flowing pants, offset against white tops.

At cocktail time, Saint Laurent's woman had a choice of short, colourful dresses, from a pink bustier with black pleats on the skirt, to a stunning bare-backed dress of blue organza, with fine straps and bustle-like flounces.

Come night, black took over with ultra-chic jumpsuits or gold-embroidered dresses, drawing warm applause for Pilati, who was rumoured last week to be poised to leave, prompting the fashion house to issue a formal denial.

Copyright AFP (Agence France-Presse), 2011