Armani heirs favour IPO over sale to industry player, sources say

MILAN: The heirs of late designer Giorgio Armani, who now control the eponymous fashion empire, favour an eventual stock market listing over a sale to a large industry player as they pursue an initial minority stake deal, two people familiar with the matter told Reuters.

Armani, who died at 91 last year, stipulated in his will that his heirs should sell around 15% of the company between 12 and 18 months after his death, followed by the disposal of a further 30% to 54.9% stake or a bourse listing.

Bankers and advisers consulted by Reuters value the Armani group at €5 billion to €7 billion, implying that any eventual sale or flotation would be one of the luxury industry’s biggest transactions in the last decade.

In his will, the late designer explicitly mentioned long-standing licensing partners L’Oréal and eyewear maker EssilorLuxottica, as well as luxury giant LVMH, as preferred buyers, without ruling out what the will referred to as other industry players of “equal standing”.

One of the people said the Italian fashion house was under no financial pressure to sell in a hurry. However, talks are under way with industry players for the initial 15% stake sale expected by March 2027 to comply with the terms of the will, the two sources said.

The heirs are inclined to split the initial stake between two or more buyers, the people said.

Splitting the stake rather than selling to a single suitor keeps options open for the second stage of the process by avoiding one strategic party becoming the frontrunner for any sale and preserving the family’s flexibility as it favours a stock market flotation, one of the people said.

The IPO should take place within three to eight years of Armani’s death, according to the will.

L’Oréal and EssilorLuxottica, both interested in purchasing a stake to protect long-standing licensing agreements for Armani fragrances and eyewear, are emerging as the most engaged suitors at this stage, the two people said.

According to the will, the 15% block collectively carries one board seat. It was not clear how that board representation would be resolved if the holding were divided among several investors.

Giorgio Armani group, L’Oreal and EssilorLuxottica declined to comment. LVMH was not immediately available for comment.