Sun, sand and smiles

Ayubowan! A young hostess of the Sri Lankan Airlines welcomed me to Colombo with a smile warmer than the sun I left back in Islamabad. The smile however did little to rid me of my anxiety. Never in my entire life had I travelled to any destination in the world without a visa. I must have called the Sri Lankan High Commission five times to confirm whether I really did not require a visa to travel, and that I would get it upon arrival free of charge.
Apprehensively, I approached the immigration desk and presented my green passport. Stamp stamp, and the passport was back in my hand almost instantly. I was stunned - was that all? No queries, no suspicious glances ... nothing! My God, what a brilliant start to a vacation I was earnestly looking forward to.
As I exited the Bandaranaike International Airport, familiar sights, sounds and smells reminded me of the many commonalties between South Asian nations that until now I had only read in books. But it was later in my journey that I realised and appreciated the uniqueness that this tropical island of 21 million inhabitants had to offer. Friends from university days had come to pick me up. I was going to stay with their family in Nugegoda, somewhere in the outskirts of Colombo. How many people get to experience the Sri Lankan way of life first hand? Like an eager child, I looked forward to every moment ahead.
Almost 70% of the population of this multi-ethnic and multi-religious country is Buddhist and my stay was to be with one such Sinhalese family. Tons of gossip and an hours' drive later, I arrived at the Perera residence - a triple storey house washed in white and adorned with tropical flora I had never seen before. My hosts were a kind retired couple who welcomed me with affection that we often only shower on close relatives. Wide windows, chunky wooden doors, cemented bare floor, a tall roof and a big fish pond greeted me inside.
It was dinner time and my hosts, Aami and Thathi (Sinhalese for 'mother' and 'father'), had generously prepared local food. I've been a fan of Sri Lankan cuisine ever since my first bite five years ago in London. Although the ingredients are not alien to the South Asian palette, it's the way these aromatic and tongue tantalising spices are used that set the cuisine distinctly apart.
Rice is the staple accompanied by main seafood or meat curry and portions of lentil, vegetables and sambols - a combination of hot peppers with vegetables, coconut or sprats served cold. The abundant use of chilies, coconut milk and curry leaves is a hallmark of Lankan cuisine. A Pakistani native, I was confident that my stomach would easily come to terms with the spices, but I was wrong, and let's leave it at that.
After an hour of enjoyable food and company, my friends said goodbye and promised to return next morning for the first leg of my Sri Lankan geographical, cultural and historical discovery. They turned to their parents for their blessings and I witnessed a remarkable ritual. They were touching their parents' feet while in head-to-floor prostration as a gesture of homage and humility, seeking their blessings. And I thought to myself - if prostration was to be allowed in front of anyone but Allah, I'm sure it would've been our parents. My heart warmed at this sight - a befitting ritual indeed.
My memory of the next few days is a vivid recollection of hours spent basking in the sun and sand of the southern coastal town of Hikkaduwa, admiring the Dutch architecture and bustle of Galle and watching the sun in Unawatuna melt away into the sea - slowly, as if enjoying its submission to fate in colours of dull magenta and gold. Here on the coasts, I realised how exciting it could be to sip away water from a coconut that had just fallen off the tree; what a divine creation the hammock was; how humbling the calm of the unfathomable, unpredictable Indian Ocean could be; and most of all, how good roadside food tastes! I have become an absolute fan of string hoppers (fresh rice noodles), egg hoppers (poached egg resting in cup-shaped rice flour pancakes), roti (coconut flat bread), and Kothu, which is a Sri Lankan version of our 'Katakat' with roti, vegetables, egg, or meat.
Nuwara Eliya or Little England as they call it is famous for its comparatively cold weather, unique flora and tea plantations. This was one of my solo expeditions, where I opted to travel on public transport - a choice I would ill advise all those who would rather the incredible scenery inspire them as opposed to an armpit.
Once in Nuwara Eliya though, the harmony of the landscape was almost surreal; as if the waterfalls were alive, cheerfully dancing to the whistle of the wind and the rustle of the tea plants. Every element of the landscape was a part of the whole and a whole in itself - tranquil and peaceful; in its rightful place. Kandy on the other hand was slightly busier, mostly because of its religious pull. Buddha's tooth relic is sacredly housed in Sri Dalada Maligawa or the Temple of the Tooth Relic, where thousands of worshippers come to pay their respects and offerings.
It was my last day in Kandy and I had already missed the express train to Colombo that I was booked on. Eagerly, I bought my ticket for the last 'regular' train, but I hardly knew what I was bargaining for until I climbed on board the 2nd class compartment. My entire journey was to be standing next to the rather noxious train toilet while facing an open door burdened with dangling, not to mention ogling men. Towards my right was a bunch of hormonally exuberant boys who sang, danced and treacherously experimented with at least five languages to win my attention. But they were no match to my exceptional Pakistani female survival skills of posing deaf, dumb and utterly oblivious under such circumstances.
Food vendors of all sizes and shapes pried their way through the cluttered corridor at least 10 times during the journey, selling drinks, savoury shrimp 'wadde' (or at least that's what I think he was chanting) and some other colourful snacks that resembled our local nimko. Across the compartment was a pleasant fellow who sang Sinhala versions of old Indian songs on his tambourine - familiar tunes that I thoroughly enjoyed. But what I enjoyed most was the breathtaking scenery of the downhill journey. I am told I could have travelled in a glass observatory at the front of the train had I been more careful in my train selection. Looking back though, I'm glad I chose to travel 2nd class - it was strangely rewarding to experience local colours as up close and personal as I did.
I didn't find the Sri Lankan lifestyle to be very different from our own. How the family unit functions, the gender division of roles and responsibilities, how guests are looked after etc. Here culture is proudly revered and natural resources are valued. People are exceptionally friendly and co-operative. Beggars are relatively few and seem genuine in most cases. I did however see an unusually high number of women engaged in economic activity - more out of need than emancipation I was told. Some journeys are exciting and adventurous; others inspiring and humbling. My journey to Sri Lanka was a perfect blend of both. Recommended for an unwind that is heavy with excitement yet light on the wallet.